A Look Inside: Neoretin Gelcream SPF 50 & Neoretin Serum Booster

Neoretin entered the South African skin care market a few years ago and Dr Ian Webster, Dermatologist and Founder of Dermastore® was very excited by what this small product range could do for pigmentation and skin ageing.

We asked him a few questions about the Neoretin Gelcream SPF 50, and the Neoretin Serum Booster Fluid which make up the Neoretin duo.

Why would you say Neoretin is innovative?

Cantabria Labs (formerly IFC) is a Spanish company with global reach that focuses on smart skin solutions. Their products target specific skin conditions using a variety of clinically-proven key ingredients, together with advanced technology. Instead of having to buy several products containing different ingredients, they have combined multiple ingredients into two products that target a variety of concerns in ageing and/or pigmented skin.

What makes you so excited about these two Neoretin products?

What I particularly like is that the NeoRetin Gel Cream has an SPF 50 which offers sun protection during the day. When using active ingredient products you need to be particularly cautious about sun exposure. Use of a daily sunscreen is vital and it makes life easier when the sunscreen is part of the day moisturiser. When this particular product was launched a few years ago there were not many day creams with a built-in sunscreen that specifically targeted melanin production. Another exciting factor is the Retinsphere technology with its safe delivery system – I find this very appealing as Retinoids have a history of causing skin irritation and it was particularly interesting for me to see how this new technology could lessen the side-effects of this potent ingredient.

Who should use Neoretin products?

Essentially these two products work together and offer optimum efficacy when used daily. They are indicated for use in people with melasma and chloasma, deeper forms of pigmentation as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation – brown marks that occur on the skin after acne, a trauma or post-operatively – darker skin types are more prone to this condition. These products are also indicated for people with sun damaged skin called photo-ageing: Fine lines, wrinkles, brown marks, and uneven skin tone.

It is necessary to note that to reduce or improve the more severe forms of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, NeoRetin is best used with hydroquinone for a period of time under medical supervision. Once a patient has completed this treatment, I find NeoRetin particularly effective as a maintenance regimen to help control all stages of melanin production.

How does Neoretin work?

The day cream and night serum contain two derivatives of Vitamin A,  delivered into the epidermis via Retinsphere Technology which helps to reduce the usual side-effects associated with retinoids:  red, irritated, sensitive skin. They help to stimulate collagen, increase cell turnover and epidermal exfoliation which in turn helps to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and the appearance of brown marks and pigmentation while brightening the skin, giving it a youthful glow.

The Whitening Booster System contains a powerful system of clinically proven depigmenting ingredients which act to inhibit all stages of melanin production and to prevent the development of melanin at every stage of its production cycle.

Included in the day cream is an SPF 50 sunscreen to help prevent further melanin production and to protect the skin from sun exposure. The galenic formulation ensures full, even coverage of the product and rapid absorption making it easy to use.

An added benefit is advanced Hydromanil, an innovative moisturizer.

What are the key ingredients that target both ageing, brown marks and post-inflammatory pigmentation and melasma?

Vitamin A

Two derivatives of Vitamin A or Retinoids in both the Gelcream and the Serum.  Retinoids are still considered the Gold Standard by Dermatologists worldwide as the leading anti-ageing ingredient. Nothing makes the skin look and feel as good as this super ingredient. It has a small molecular structure so it is able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin to stimulate collagen and elastin. It is able to normalize skin cells, it improves skin tone, helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as lighten brown spots and pigmentation.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is the by-product of the manufacture of sake (rice wine). Kojic acid is a skin lightener. It inhibits melanin production by blocking the enzyme essential for it, called tyrosinase. It lightens skin discolourations, such as age and dark spots, freckles, and melasma. In addition, it has antioxidant properties.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a derivative of Vitamin B3 – it has been found to have several important uses when it comes to the skin.  It has been known to improve skin texture and tone and even yellowing of the skin and it helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It plays an important role in helping to keep the skin barrier function normal as well as displaying antioxidant capabilities after a topical application. Most importantly it helps to suppress melanin production which can cause pigmentation and it helps to even out skin tone. It is also indicated for use in acne and it can help to reduce inflammation. This is another good product for use in people suffering from adult acne and wrinkles!

Hydromanil

Hydromanil is an innovative moisturiser that helps to retain moisture on the surface of the skin while preventing moisture loss.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid works by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin making it easier to remove. When salicylic acid is used in combination with other ingredients takes off the upper layer of skin allowing them to penetrate more effectively.

Albatin

Albatin is an anti-ageing, skin brightening ingredient that helps to inhibit the activity of melanin production.

Alistin

Alistin with its antioxidant and anti-glycation abilities helps to both prevent and repair the skin when faced with environmental aggressors and it helps to protect the DNA.

Does Neoretin have clinical proof?

Neoretin’s effectiveness for treating pigmentation has been established in clinical trials conducted on various skin types and ethnicities across the globe. These results were published in a peer-reviewed Dermatology Journal in 2018, ultimate clinical validation for any skincare brand. You can view the article, here.