‘Controversial’ ingredients that aren’t so controversial

Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation and disinformation about skincare ingredients that have been used for many years.

In some cases, they may be labelled as unsafe and dangerous without good scientific data to support these claims. At times the media hype around these ingredients becomes so powerful that the manufacturers of skincare products are forced to remove them from their formulations, again without strong scientific proof.

I will discuss some of these controversial skincare ingredients to try and give some clarity on the matter.

Sulphates

A sulphate is a salt that forms when sulfuric acid reacts with another chemical. Examples of sulphates include Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, and Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate. These compounds are produced from petrolatum and plant sources such as coconut and palm oil. Sulphates create small bubbles that produce a lather that attracts and removes any oil and impurities from the skin and hair, making the cleaning process more efficient and effective.

There is no direct evidence linking sulphates to the development of cancer or infertility. The only real side-effect of the sulphates is that at higher concentrations they may cause drying and irritation of the skin in people with more sensitive skin.

Therefore, if the sulphates are used in a low concentration as a wash-off product there should be no problem. However, if the skin has shown sensitivity or dryness, avoid sulphates and opt for milder formulas that have been developed for sensitive skin as these usually contain milder surfactants.

Preservatives

Any skincare products such as creams that contain water have the potential to go off due to bacterial contamination. These products, therefore, require a preservative to prevent bacterial overgrowth. Ointments, on the other hand, are anhydrous (do not contain water) and therefore do not require a preservative.

Many newer-generation skincare products are in airless containers or pumps and therefore do not require a preservative. Examples of preservatives are Parabens, Phenoxyethanol and Sodium Benzoate.

There have been concerns about parabens that might mimic oestrogen in the body. However, studies have shown that parabens in cosmetics are safe and unlikely to cause oestrogenic harm to humans based on the low concentrations of parabens found in skincare formulas. However, despite this many skincare product manufacturers have removed parabens from their formulations due to negative media attention.

Silicones

Silicones are found in many skincare products as they make the skin and hair feel smoother and more luxurious. When used on the skin, they act as an occlusive reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and therefore keeping the skin more hydrated. Examples of silicones include Dimethicone, Methicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, and ingredients with the suffix -one or –oxane.

High molecular weight silicones are not suitable for people with oily, acne-prone skin as they can clog pores and aggravate acne. Most medical-grade brands avoid higher molecular weight silicones and are considered to be safe and effective.

Mineral Oils

Examples of these include Petrolatum and Liquid Paraffin. As these products are derived from oil they have gone out of favour somewhat but in fact, oil comes from dead algae and is, therefore, a natural, organic product.

Petrolatum is very bland and hypoallergenic. Because it is an ointment it does not contain a preservative. It also acts as an occlusive and is useful in treating wounds, dry cracked skin, and eczema. It has been used safely for many years following an ablative CO2 laser where the whole top layer of the skin is vaporized – the petrolatum forms a hypo-allergenic occlusive barrier allowing the skin to regenerate itself. These products have been used for over one hundred years and are considered safe by the American FDA.

The only real problem with the mineral oils is that they can be too occlusive and trigger acne in people with oily, acne-prone skin. Also, if used on hairy areas of the body they may cause folliculitis (infection in the hair follicles).

Chemical UV Filters

The older organic chemical sunscreen filters include Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, and Octinoxate. They are smaller molecules and studies have shown that when applied to large areas of the body, some of these filters are absorbed into the bloodstream. This, however, does not mean that they are inherently unsafe or dangerous as our bodies can metabolize these chemical filters. However, the American FDA has recently recommended that further studies be performed on these older chemical filters to prove unequivocally that they are safe for daily use especially when used over large areas of the body.

Not wearing sunscreen elevates the risk of developing skin cancer if going into the sun unprotected. Most effective high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreens contain a mixture of both mineral and chemical UV filters. The newer organic chemical sunscreen filters include Mexoryl SX, Tinasorb M, and Tinasorb S. These are generally larger molecules and therefore they are less likely to be absorbed into the bloodstream.

You can use mineral-only sunscreens that do not contain chemical filters but unfortunately, these are more expensive especially when used over a large area of the body.

Therefore, the general recommendation is to avoid the sun between 10:00 and 16:00 and if you are outdoors at this time apply a good quality, high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen, wear a tightly woven broad-brimmed hat which provides UV protection and clothing with long sleeves and a collar plus protective eye-wear. It is important to remember to reapply sunscreen every two hours or after swimming or if sweating heavily.

If you are seeking the truth about the safety and efficacy of a specific skincare ingredient, search Google Scholar and find an article published in a peer-reviewed medical journal on that ingredient.