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Dr Ian Webster

The Benefits of Moisturisers

  • October 27, 2023
  • Learn, Moisturisation

Dry, dehydrated skin is a common concern that can be addressed with the use of moisturisers. Ageing skin, in particular, tends to lack essential fats and oils in the outer layer, leading to water loss and dehydration. However, not all moisturisers are the same, and it’s crucial to find one that suits your specific skin type and concerns.

An ideal moisturiser usually contains a mix of emollients, occlusives and humectants – together these hydrate the skin, preventing water loss and dehydration by helping to restore lipids and other essential components in healthy skin.

Emollients:

Emollients are mainly lipids and oils which hydrate and help to keep the skin soft, smooth and supple.

Occlusives:

Occlusives reduce transepidermal water loss by creating a barrier over the skin which locks in water but they are often greasy. Oily skins may not be able to use these as they would be too fatty and comedogenic causing breakouts.

Humectants:

Humectants are able to attract water from external environments, especially in humid conditions and they also enhance water absorption from the dermis into the epidermis.

Skincare ingredients found in moisturisers

Normal or combination skin:

  • Ceramides
  • Panthenol
  • Glycerin
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Dark marks:

  • Niacinamide
  • Liquorice Extract
  • Glutathione
  • Bisabolol
  • Ectoin
  • Purslane

Dry & Sensitive:

  • Ceramides
  • Panthenol
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Beta-Glucan
  • Fatty Acids
  • Shea Butter
  • Vitamin E

Oily, Acne-Prone:

  • Niacinamide
  • Salicylic Acid
  • Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
  • Borage Seed Oil
  • Bisabolol
  • Cucumber Extract

Red, Rosacea-Prone:

  • Ceramides
  • Panthenol
  • Vitamin E
  • Niacinamide
  • Cucumber
  • Enoxolone

Early Ageing, Fine Lines:

  • Vitamin E
  • Polyhydroxy Acids
  • Purslane
  • Co-enzyme Q10

Mature, Sun Damaged:

  • Peptides
  • Growth Factors
  • Phytosphingosine
  • Proxylane

Facial Moisturisers

Normal or combination skin:

For normal or combination skin, it’s important to find a moisturiser that provides balanced hydration without being too heavy or greasy. Look for moisturisers that offer lightweight hydration, regulate oil production, and address specific skin concerns. Dr Webster recommends:

  • Jorgobé Bio-Active Balancing Moisturizer
  • SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture
  • Hyaestic NMF Light-Weight Hydrating Cream

Dark marks:

Properly moisturised skin tends to have improved cell turnover and renewal, which can help fade dark marks over time. They also have active ingredients which target and lighten dark marks. Dr Webster recommends:

  • Huxley Glow Awakening Cream
  • mesoestetic melan recovery
  • MartiDerm DSP Renovation Cream

Early Ageing, Fine Lines:

Moisturisers help replenish and maintain the skin’s moisture levels, which is essential for maintaining skin health and minimising the appearance of fine lines. Well-hydrated skin appears plumper and smoother, reducing the visibility of fine lines. Dr Webster recommends:

  • Lamelle Nourish Revitalise Lite
  • NeoStrata® PHA Daily Moisturizer
  • mesoestetic age element firming cream

Dry & Sensitive:

Dry skin lacks moisture, and moisturisers help replenish and lock in hydration, preventing further moisture loss. They provide a barrier that seals in moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and preventing dryness and flakiness. Many moisturisers for dry and sensitive skin contain ingredients which help reduce redness, inflammation, and skin sensitivity, providing relief to dry and irritated skin. Dr Webster recommends:

  • Bioderma Sensibio Defensive Rich Cream
  • Lamelle Serra Soothing Cream
  • Dermaceutic Regen Ceutic

 Oily, Acne-Prone:

Oily skin can still be dehydrated and lacking in moisture, especially if harsh acne treatments are used. Moisturisers help balance the skin by providing lightweight hydration, which can reduce the overproduction of sebum (skin’s natural oil). Dr Webster recommends:

  • MartiDerm Acniover Active Cremigel
  • NeoStrata® Sheer Hydration SPF 40
  • PCA Skin Clearskin

Red, Rosacea-Prone:

Rosacea-prone skin tends to be sensitive and easily irritated. Moisturisers help hydrate and soothe the skin, reducing dryness and reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier. This helps to improve the skin’s resilience and reduce the likelihood of flare-ups and redness. Dr Webster recommends:

  • MartiDerm Rosarepair Fluid Emulsion SPF30
  • NeoStrata® Bionic Face Cream
  • SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3

Mature, Sun Damaged:

Mature skin tends to be drier and has a reduced ability to retain moisture. Moisturisers provide essential hydration to replenish and restore moisture levels in the skin. They help improve the skin’s moisture barrier, preventing further moisture loss and maintaining optimal hydration, which is vital for mature skin to appear plump, supple, and youthful. Dr Webster recommends:

  • Endocare Tensage Nourishing Cream
  • Huxley Anti-Gravity Cream
  • SkinCeuticals A.G.E Interrupter Advanced

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