Arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone. It is believed to be one of the best alternatives to hydroquinone as it provides the skin-brightening effect of hydroquinone, without some of the associated risks. Arbutin helps to treat all forms hyperpigmentation – solar lentigines, melasma, chloasma and freckles.
Also known as Alpha-Arbutin, it occurs naturally in several different plant species. Plants with the highest known concentrations are bearberry and mulberry. It is also found in blueberry, cranberry, wheat, and pear varieties.
Arbutin is composed of hydroquinone with a sugar group attached. The hydroquinone group allows Arbutin to act as an inhibitor of tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in melanin (pigment) production.
Tips for using Arbutin in Skincare
- If the compound is sourced from synthetic sources such as hydroquinone, it is said to be unsafe for topical use on the skin
- In alkaline conditions, Arbutin converts into hydroquinone, which means that it becomes unsafe in some circumstances
- The skin does not have an alkaline environment, which is why Arbutin does not hydrolyse into hydroquinone
Skincare products that can help with Hyperpigmentation
Arbutin can be found in a variety of skincare products aimed at brightening skin pigmentation. Dr Webster recommends minimalist formulations with a few carefully selected synergistic ingredients, that have been produced by trusted manufacturers who have clinically relevant studies to support the efficacy of their formulations: