Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Upon visiting the NeoStrata® headquarters in Princeton USA in 2014, Dr Webster had the privilege of meeting the two famous doctors who founded the NeoStrata® company namely Dr Eugene Van Scott, a Dermatologist, and Dr Ruey Yu a Dermatopharmocologist. Dr Webster was able to see first-hand the living proof of how well their products work and they both had great skin and they were both well into their 90s!

Dr van Scott and Dr Yu were the first doctors to research and publish the benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids in the skin. During their early years of research into skin diseases, they focused on psoriasis and ichthyosis (genetically dry skin found in eczema sufferers) and this led to research of other skin diseases.

Types of AHAs

Mandelic Acid

• An alpha-hydroxy acid derived from almonds
• Mandelic Acid helps clear debris from pores, making it a great choice for acne-prone skin
• Having a larger molecule size than other acids (such as Glycolic or Salicylic), it does not penetrate as deeply and is therefore considered gentler

Lactic Acid

• An alpha-hydroxy acid that is derived from foods such as milk and yoghurt
• It provides gentle exfoliation as well as moisturisation benefits due to it having humectant properties

Phytic Acid

• An alpha-hydroxy acid derived from grains, legumes, and rice
• It is considered a milder exfoliating acid, but its main differentiator is its potent antioxidant properties

Glycolic Acid

• It has a small molecular structure which makes it very effective at removing the build-up of dead cells on the surface of the skin
• It improves acne as it cleans debris from congested pores
• It improves pigmentation
• Its anti-ageing qualities help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles because it stimulates collagen and elastin

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of chemical compounds commonly used in skin care products. AHAs work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, promoting their shedding and revealing newer, healthier skin underneath. They can help with various skin concerns, including dullness, uneven texture, acne, and hyperpigmentation. AHAs may also stimulate collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin over time.

Treatment tips when implementing AHAs

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids can be irritating to the skin so they should be introduced with caution – low and slow
• Start with low-percentage formulations and introduce them slowly over time to avoid skin irritation
• They can cause dryness and flaking when first used as they remove the dry and dull superficial layer of the skin
• AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun and it is necessary to always wear a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen

Skincare products containing AHAs

Glycolic Acid

Dr Webster recommends:

• SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser
• NeoStrata® Smooth Surface Glycolic Peel Pads
• mesoestetic glycorepair

Mandelic Acid

Dr Webster recommends:

• NeoStrata® Mandelic Clarifying Cleanser
• mesoestetic melan tran3x concentrate
• Dermaceutic Radiance Expert Brightening Cream

Lactic Acid

Dr Webster recommends:

• mesoestetic brightening foam
• ZO Skin Health Enzymatic Peel
• Lamelle Luminesce Evening Glow

Phytic Acid

Dr Webster recommends:

• SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser
• pHformula MD MELA Active Recovery
• Dermaceutic Light Ceutic