ABC of Skin Health

Benefits of Vitamin A

• Vitamin A is still considered the Gold Standard of anti-ageing ingredients by Dermatologists worldwide
• There are several derivatives of Vitamin A (Retinoids) including Retinol, Tretinoin, Retinyl Esters and Isotretinoin – some are stronger than others
• Vitamin A can target multiple signs of ageing caused by sun damage as it helps to normalise and regenerate skin cells
• It increases epidermal cellular turnover and gives the skin a healthy, radiant glow as it removes dry, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin
• It normalises the stratum corneum, the skin’s outer layer helping to promote a healthy skin barrier function
• It stimulates collagen synthesis which helps to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as the skin’s matrix (skin’s mattress) is thickened
• It decreases rough texture as it exfoliates the skin and allows for deeper delivery of active ingredients
• Product penetration is more efficient and this helps to keep the skin well-hydrated and moisturised
• It reduces pigmentation and brown marks caused by overexposure to the sun and it helps to even skin tone
• It helps to reduce pre-cancerous lesions on the surface of the skin as it exfoliates these rough patches and helps to normalise cells
• Isotretinoin is derived from Vitamin A and is the only drug that can put acne into remission as it cuts back on oil gland production, alters how the dead layer of the skin is formed making it less sticky thus reducing blackheads and whiteheads
• Vitamin A is a super ingredient that should be used daily or as tolerated to attain optimum skin health as it is not stored in the skin and needs to be replenished

Benefits of Vitamin B

• The best form of Vitamin B for the skin is topical Niacinamide which is a physiologically active form of Niacin or Vitamin B3
• Niacinamide is a gentle, multi-tasking, anti-ageing ingredient that is generally well tolerated by the skin
• It is a multi-corrective ingredient that benefits those who are unable to tolerate Vitamin A to address skin ageing
• Stimulates epidermal cell turnover, brightening the skin and giving it a radiant glow
• Improves the skin barrier function helping to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), strengthening the skin’s moisture barrier
• Helps to decrease inflammation, redness and blotchiness in sensitive skin
• Reduces sebum production in oily, acne-prone skin and has an anti-inflammatory action to reduce redness associated with acne
• Reduces localised discolouration, evens skin tone & improves dull, sallow skin associated with photo-damage caused by long-term sun exposure
• Niacinamide is a cell-communicating ingredient that helps to prevent and reverse visible signs of ageing by increasing skin elasticity

Benefits of Vitamin C

• L-ascorbic acid is the purest form of Vitamin C and provides multiple benefits to the skin
• It is a potent antioxidant when applied topically as it protects the body from reactive oxygen damage and other environmental aggressors that lead to skin ageing and some skin discolourations
• It needs to be applied as a topical formulation daily as ingested Vitamin C for the protection of the skin is limited. Topically delivered L-Ascorbic Acid has been shown to increase Vitamin C levels in the skin
• It is an inherently unstable molecule so L-Ascorbic Acid must be stabilised in a topical formulation so that it can penetrate the skin. For L-Ascorbic Acid to penetrate the skin and be bioavailable for use, it should be formulated in high concentrations and it should be formulated at an acidic pH
• The best quality antioxidant serums are stabilised at high concentrations so that more topical Vitamin C is available to the skin
• Topical Vitamin C protects the skin against the full UV spectrum and especially UVA which causes photo-ageing and it is the only antioxidant that has been proven to increase collagen synthesis
• Prevents UV immunosuppression and DNA mutations. Scientists know that mutated cells cause skin cancer and that L-Ascorbic Acid helps to prevent UV-induced mutations in skin cells
• Enhances and stabilises Vitamin E
• It helps to control inflammation and promotes wound healing as L-Ascorbic Acid signals collagen genes to synthesise collagen, a reaction that is important in wound healing

Besides daily use of good quality, high factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen, I do not think you can go far wrong in attaining the best skin health for life by using the above ABC vitamins.

Reference: The Benefits of Topical Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) for Skin and UV Protection Sheldon R. Pinnell, MD• and Doren L. Madey, PhD” Duke University Medical Center, Durham, NC 27710 April 1999