Urea may be best known for its role in the body, but it’s also one of skincare’s most versatile and effective multitaskers. Found naturally in your skin as part of its Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs), urea plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration, supporting barrier function, and even smoothing skin texture.
What makes Urea unique?
- Hydration: At low concentrations (less tha. 5%), urea acts as a humectant, drawing water into the skin and keeping it plump, elastic, and comfortable.
- Exfoliation: At higher concentrations (10-40%), urea acts as a mild keratolytic, helping to gently break down hardened protein bonds and shed dead skin cells.
- Barrier Repair: Urea improves skin barrier function, making it especially beneficial for those with dryness, eczema, or sensitivity.
- Microbiome Support: Urea has been shown to enhance antimicrobial peptide activity, which helps maintain a healthier skin environment.
Treatment Tips: Using Urea Effectively
- Don’t combine high-percentage urea with other exfoliants (like AHAs or BHAs) on the same day.
- Urea can increase sun sensitivity; always follow with sunscreen, especially if using higher concentrations.
- Avoid applying urea products to broken skin or open wounds.
- Always follow the product instructions for frequency and concentration.
Skincare products containing Urea
Dark Marks:
By removing the outer layer of dead skin cells, urea can promote the growth of new, healthier skin cells, which may help fade dark marks over time. Dr Webster recommends:
Dryness & Sensitivity:
Urea is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types. Its mild exfoliating action is less likely to irritate compared to more potent exfoliants. Dr Webster recommends:
- MartiDerm GF Vital Age Cream (Dry skin)
- Dermaceutic Advanced Cleanser
- Melumé Calm Balm
- pHformula SOS Rescue Cream
Early Ageing, Fine Lines:
By enhancing the skin’s moisture content, urea can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and make the skin look more radiant. Dr Webster recommends:
Mature, Sun Damaged Skin:
Mature skin may benefit from urea’s ability to improve elasticity and maintain a supple appearance, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dr Webster recommends:
Normal or Combination:
For normal or combination skin, which can have both dry and oily areas, urea helps balance hydration levels by providing moisture where needed without making the skin overly greasy. Dr Webster recommends:
Oily, Acne-Prone:
By promoting gentle exfoliation and preventing the accumulation of dead skin cells, urea can contribute to reducing the formation of comedones, which are a precursor to acne. Dr Webster recommends:
Red, Rosacea-Prone Skin:
Urea’s moisturising and barrier-strengthening properties can help reduce inflammation and redness Dr Webster recommends: