Cysteamine

Hyperpigmentation presents in many ways, whether it’s melasma, post-inflammatory dark marks, or general uneven skin tone.

Stabilised Cysteamine, as an ingredient in skincare products, offers an alternative that’s safe and effective, making it an important part of modern hyperpigmentation management, especially for long-term or maintenance use.

For decades, hydroquinone was considered the go-to treatment. But concerns about safety and long-term use have led us to explore safer alternatives.

What is Cysteamine?

Cysteamine is a naturally occurring molecule in human cells, derived from the amino acid L-cysteine. It plays a role in antioxidant defence and has been used for years in medical contexts. But only recently has it gained attention in dermatology for its depigmenting power – without the risks associated with older agents like hydroquinone.

How Does It Work?

Cysteamine targets pigmentation at multiple points:

• Inhibits tyrosinase and peroxidase, two key enzymes in melanin production
• Reduces oxidative stress, a major trigger in pigmentation disorders
• Disrupts melanosome transfer, preventing pigment from being deposited into the skin’s outer layers

Some formulations go even further by pairing Cysteamine with enhancers like Tranexamic Acid, Vitamin C, Retinol and Niacinamide.

Clinical Evidence

Recent studies have shown cysteamine to be as effective or more so than hydroquinone and the Kligman’s formula (a potent mix of hydroquinone, retinoid, and steroid).

• 67% pigment correction in 16 weeks
• More effective than hydroquinone 4% in comparative studies
• Better tolerated, with fewer side effects like irritation, ochronosis, or rebound pigmentation

In patients resistant to traditional treatments, cysteamine has consistently shown strong results. It is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, but otherwise has an excellent safety profile, even with long-term use.

Cysteamine products require a specific protocol for best results:

1. Apply to unwashed skin, ideally after skin has “rested” (no washing for 1 hour prior)
2. Short-contact therapy, typically 15 minutes daily during the intensive phase
3. Wash off with a gentle cleanser, then follow with moisturiser
4. Always use daily SPF, as with any pigment treatment

One common complaint with cysteamine was its sulphur-like odour. Newer formulations now include encapsulation or neutralising complexes to manage smell and increase user comfort.