What are the 3 most important factors to take into account when choosing your skincare products?
- Ingredients
- Performance
- Budget
Dermastore® was the first online store in South Africa to sell medical-grade skincare products. From the start, it was very important to us to not only sell high quality, carefully curated products chosen by our Dermatologist, Dr Ian Webster but to also add value by educating our customers. One of the best ways we could do this was through Dr Webster. With his vast experience, he has generously shared his knowledge and this has helped us to support and empower our customers when it comes to making their skincare choices.
Buying the kind of skincare products that we sell on Dermastore® is an investment in yourself and your skin health. Knowing the actions of ingredients, understanding their efficacy and finding products that fit within your skincare budget is of great importance to us. We know that if all three of these criteria are met, the outcomes are usually happy ones!
Investing in medical-grade products is investing in your skin health.
We see skins that go from zero to hero once a person starts to use medical-grade skin products, with clinically proven ingredients backed by science. It is advisable to use them over a period of time to see the best results and not change your skincare routine too often – this allows the ingredients to work and make lasting changes.
Young skins do not require many active ingredients but in our experience, it is best to start using ingredients that protect and prevent like antioxidants and sunscreens. Once the first signs of ageing appear, this is when people usually start buying anti-ageing products and become interested in ingredients that will make a visible difference to their skins.
It is also very important to understand that ingredients often work together in formulations synergistically and this is the arena where the big boys in skincare come out to play … it takes millions of euros and dollars to do research and development together with clinical trials for safety and efficacy before a new product is brought to market. Medical-grade formulations differ from over-the-counter products because they contain higher concentrations of active ingredients, making it important that they are sold through the correct professional channels.
Below are 20 of our most well-loved, clinically proven ingredients that we know will make a difference to your skin:
Aminofil® is a revolutionary, patented amino acid derivative patented by NeoStrata. It helps to build the skin’s natural volume over a period of time and to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, usually in areas on the face where there are repetitive facial expressions.
Apple Stem Cell extract is derived from apple stem cells. This ingredient helps to combat the ageing process of skin cells, preserving a youthful look and vitality of the skin. In particular, the cell extract from Uttwiler Spätlauber, a variety of a Swiss Apple, yields the best stem cells suited to human skin that are rich in phytonutrients and proteins.
Arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone which is considered the gold standard ingredient in the treatment of pigmentation. Arbutin is believed to be one of the best alternatives to hydroquinone as it helps to reduce pigmentation without some of the risks associated with hydroquinone.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is also produced by a yeast called Pityrosporum ovale, that naturally occurs on the skin. It is a very versatile ingredient used in the treatment of acne, rosacea and seborrhoeic dermatitis and it also helps to inhibit melanin production. It has multiple actions: keratolytic, comedolytic and is an anti-inflammatory as well as generally non-irritating.
Bakuchiol is found in the seeds and leaves of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It is commonly found in India and some parts of Asia and has been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries. It is an antioxidant, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory. Studies published in the British Journal of Dermatology after a 12-week trial showed that when Bakuchiol and Retinol were compared, Bakuchiol was comparable to Retinol in its ability to improve photo-ageing by reducing wrinkles, skin texture and improving age spots. It is a gentler option for those with sensitive skin or those who cannot tolerate Retinol.
Ferulic Acid is derived from plant cell walls. It can be found in wheat, oats, brown rice, coffee, peanuts, oranges and apples. It is a potent antioxidant that helps fight free radicals damage. It can provide benefits for the skin when used alone, but studies have shown that, when used with Vitamins C and E (both of which have antioxidant properties too), it can enhance their effects. Ferulic Acid can offer some protection from UV rays and help prevent sun damage but is not a substitute for sunscreen.
Gluconolactone, a Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA) that is found naturally in the skin. It provides full-strength anti-ageing benefits without irritation and even suitable for people with Rosacea, sensitive skins or those who have recently undergone cosmetic procedures. Gluconolactone strengthens the skin barrier function, reducing sensitivity to irritants and skin redness over time. It helps preserve the skin’s collagen by reducing glycation
Glycolic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) which helps to treat photo-damaged (sun-damaged) skin. This fruit acid derived from sugar cane helps to speed up cell turnover which slows down as we age. Our skin takes longer to renew itself and a dry, dead layer of skin builds up making the skin appear dull. By speeding up the process of skin renewal our skin behaves like it did when we were younger, giving it a more radiant, healthy glow.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a natural substance found in human connective tissue whose function is to cushion and lubricate. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it can draw water from the environment into the skin, thus helping to keep it hydrated. It can bind water up to 1000 times its volume and is effective in both high and low humidity conditions. It often found in serums and more advanced formulations where different weights of HA are able to hydrate the skin on different levels from the epidermis to the dermis.
Kojic acid is a natural by-product of fermented malting rice that is used for Japanese rice wine better known as Sake. It helps to reduce the appearance of pigmentation and to brighten the skin and give it a glowing radiance.
Vitamin C in its purest form is also known as L-Ascorbic Acid – it is proven to support collagen synthesis. One of the ways that our skin keeps itself renewed and youthful-looking is through the production of a protein called collagen. As we age, our skin naturally stops producing as much collagen as it did in our younger years and less collagen can result in more signs of skin ageing, such as sagging, fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, it is a potent antioxidant and has been shown to help brighten skin, retain moisture and protect the skin’s natural defences against UV radiation.
Lactobionic Acid and Maltobionic Acid are patented, non-irritating ‘Bionic’ PHAs derived from natural sugars, help prevent and reverse the appearance of photo-ageing, including fine lines and wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, enlarged pores, and roughness. They are natural humectants as they bind water to create a moisturising barrier on the skin. Lactobionic Acid is also a potent antioxidant used to prevent oxidative damage.
NeoGlucosamine® is a patented non-acid amino sugar technology that gently exfoliates the skin to promote cellular turnover, diminishes fine lines and wrinkles, and exfoliates hyperpigmented spots and acne giving the skin a more even tone. NeoGlucosamine® is also a building block of Hyaluronic Acid, skin’s natural filler, providing superior plumping of the skin, smoothing the appearance of lines and wrinkles from the inside and creating a firmer, smoother look.
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that has become a popular anti-ageing ingredient in medical-grade products as it is multi-functional. It is able to penetrate into the skin providing superior hydration and to support the skin barrier function. It has a high tolerability causing no irritation. It is suitable for those with rosacea or very sensitive skin. It is also a useful ingredient in the treatment of mild acne and some forms of pigmentation. It is also a good ingredient to use alongside Retinol as it helps to reduce irritation and improve skin tolerance.
Peptides are a chain of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. They can stimulate fibroblasts which are a precursor to collagen – in other words, they signal the skin to create collagen, which is essential in the fight against skin ageing and wrinkles in particular. Peptides can be viewed as part of a tactical response squad and are often found in multi-ingredient formulations.
Phloretin is a natural plant phenol found in the leaves of an apple tree as well as the Manchurian apricot. It is clinically proven to provide superior antioxidant protection by neutralizing free-radicals present in the environment.
Retinol is still considered the Gold Standard of topical anti-ageing products by Dermatologists worldwide. It has the ability to rejuvenate the skin and improve the overall appearance skin ageing. It speeds up cell turnover, it reduces fine lines and wrinkles, it evens out skin tone, improves texture and skin discolouration. Best of all with continued use it gives the skin a radiant, healthy glow. More advanced formulations are encapsulated for slow release into the skin, thereby reducing redness and irritation usually associated with Retinol.
Resveratrol, known as the longevity molecule, is sourced from grape skins, blueberries, raspberries, and various plants including knotweed and red wine. It has been recognized for its powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing properties which include strengthening the skin’s natural antioxidant defence system to help neutralize free radicals.
Salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid which is commonly used in acne formulations. Its structure is such that it can penetrate into the skin cells deeply. This keratolytic action loosens and removes the top of layer of skin cells which encourages exfoliation, cellular turnover and the unclogging of pores in oily, acne skins.
Tranexamic acid is a powerful ingredient recognized for its ability to brighten the skin and improve the appearance of stubborn discolourations. It is a synthetically derived ingredient that has recently been formulated in topical skincare products with excellent results. By addressing discolouration at the onset, it is able to reduce skin discolourations such as melasma, hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Studies have also demonstrated its ability to address hard-to-treat forms of discolouration including post-acne marks and stubborn brown patches caused by the sun.
