Our Ultimate Guide to Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can improve the appearance of dark spots and smooth fine lines. More importantly, it is a potent free radical scavenger protecting the skin from environmental aggressors such as pollution, and UV radiation. Over time, these free radicals can damage the skin, leading to premature signs of ageing, and increasing your risk for skin cancer.

Vitamin C has multiple skin benefits:

• It assists in the formation of new collagen
• Provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage
• Brightens the skin and reduces uneven skin tone

Types of Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA)

• It is a potent antioxidant and is seen as the gold standard when it comes to Vitamin C because it is the purest form
• It is a multi-functional ingredient with the ability to protect, prevent and correct damage to the skin when applied topically
• Correctly formulated, stable, L-Ascorbic Acid is generally the first choice when it comes to choosing Vitamin C
• It down-regulates the enzymes responsible for collagen degradation and preserves existing collagen
• For meaningful levels to be delivered into the skin L-Ascorbic Acid should be at concentrations of between 10%-20%
• Those with dry or sensitive skin should only use a lower concentration (10% or below) or consider using a derivative which will be less irritating
• Those with more oily skin, or pigmentation issues or who want to prevent premature ageing should use higher concentrations daily

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• It is a salt of Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), which provides antioxidant protection
• Studies indicate that SAP exhibits potent antimicrobial effects against C. acnes, reduces sebum oxidation, and can be used synergistically with other anti-acne ingredients

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• Stable, hydrating form of Vitamin C
• It does not need to be formulated with a low pH for efficacy and is generally well-tolerated
• MAP has been shown to improve the appearance of an uneven skin tone when used in lower concentrations

Ascorbyl Glucoside

• Stable form of Vitamin C combined with starch-derived glucose
• It offers many of the same benefits as pure Vitamin C
• Excellent antioxidant to improve skin’s environmental defences
• It has skin-brightening benefits and improves uneven skin tone
• Works well when formulated with Niacinamide

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

• Oil-soluble, more stable form of vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
• Known to help preserve skin collagen
• Neutralises free radicals that would otherwise damage skin’s lipids
• It pairs well with other forms of Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Green Tea, and Retinol for enhanced anti-ageing benefits
• When targeting hyperpigmentation, may be used with other pigment-reducing ingredients such as Niacinamide and Licorice Root to deliver synergistic results

Treatment tips that can help when implementing Vitamin C

• L-Ascorbic Acid can be irritating to the skin, it should always be introduced at a lower percentage and stepped up according to your own skin’s tolerance levels and needs
• To minimise the risk of stinging/prickling when using an acidic Vitamin C product, make sure the cleanser you use beforehand is a neutral pH cleanser
• The one ingredient you should steer clear of when using Vitamin C is Benzoyl Peroxide, which can oxidise the Vitamin C and, therefore, make it less potent. You can still use your benzoyl peroxide products, just not at the same time in your routine as the Vitamin C. Try using Vitamin C in the morning and Benzoyl Peroxide in the evenings, or use them on different days
• Generally, use Vitamin C products in the morning and retinoids at night
• Vitamin C is vulnerable to light and heat and if not stored correctly it can oxidise
• It should always be packaged in a dark, or coloured container and exposure to air should be limited
• When introducing another serum in conjunction with Vitamin C we suggest that using each of your actives on either alternative days to one another or to use one in the morning and one in the eveningVitamin C serums formulated at a very low pH can cause sensitivity on the skin which feels like a tingle on the skin
• Vitamin C moisturisers and serums are not a replacement for SPF protection
• Generally, serums come in the form of a glass dropper or ampoule, where you can simply drop 4-5 drops directly onto the skin and spread using your fingertips
• The colour of the Vitamin C serum will vary from brand to brand, as well as from batch to batch. Colour variations with Vitamin C serums can range from almost clear to pale yellow or dark yellow.
• It is common for L-ascorbic acid to darken with time, but it will remain effective if properly formulated with supportive studies
• If you have very sensitive or allergy-prone skin, it is best to seek professional or medical guidance before using a Vitamin C product for the first time.

Skincare products containing Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid
Dr Webster recommends:

• Obagi-C Cleansing Gel
• Dermaceutic Tri Vita C30 Serum
• NeoStrata® Enlighten 15% Vitamin C + PHA Serum
• SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic®
• Hyaestic 4% Arbutin & 10% Vitamin C Serum

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dr Webster recommends:

• Beaut™ Sunny Skin
• Lamelle Refirm Serum
• pHformula VITA C Serum
• Lamelle Clarity Active Control
• Endocare Radiance C Ferulic Edafence Serum

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dr Webster recommends:

• Lamelle Luminesce Brightening Defense 30
• pHformula VITA C Cream
• mesoestetic age element brightening eye contour
• Lamelle Nourish Rescue Repair Gel
• pHformula VITA C Bright Overnight Mask

Ascorbyl Glucoside
Dr Webster recommends:

• Dr. Barbara Sturm The Good C Vitamin C Serum
• MartiDerm DSP Cream SPF 50+
• ZO Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener 0.5%
• Obagi-C Exfoliating Day Lotion

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Dr Webster recommends:

• NeoStrata® Brightening Eye Cream
• ZO Skin Health 10% Vitamin C Self-Activating Serum
• Lamelle Vita-C Lipid Serum
• Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex