Our Ultimate Guide to Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can improve the appearance of dark spots and smooth fine lines. More importantly, it is a potent free radical scavenger protecting the skin from environmental aggressors such as pollution, and UV radiation. Over time, these free radicals can damage the skin, leading to premature signs of ageing, and increasing your risk for skin cancer.

Vitamin C has multiple skin benefits:

• It assists in the formation of new collagen
• Provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage
• Brightens the skin and reduces uneven skin tone

Types of Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA)

• L-Ascorbic Acid is considered the gold standard for Vitamin C due to its potency and purity
• It is a multi-functional ingredient that protects, prevents, and repairs skin damage when applied topically
• When formulated correctly and stabilized, L-Ascorbic Acid is typically the first choice for Vitamin C in skincare
• It works by down-regulating the enzymes responsible for collagen degradation, helping preserve existing collagen
• For effective results, L-Ascorbic Acid should be used in concentrations of 10% to 20% for meaningful penetration and efficacy
• Dry or sensitive skin should use lower concentrations (10% or below) or consider a milder derivative to avoid irritation
• Oily skin, pigmentation concerns, or those looking to prevent premature ageing may benefit from higher concentrations (above 10%) used daily

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• It is a salt of Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), which provides antioxidant protection
• Studies indicate that SAP exhibits potent antimicrobial effects against C. acnes, reduces sebum oxidation, and can be used synergistically with other anti-acne ingredients

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• Stable, hydrating form of Vitamin C
• It does not need to be formulated with a low pH for efficacy and is generally well-tolerated
• MAP has been shown to improve the appearance of an uneven skin tone when used in lower concentrations

Ascorbyl Glucoside

• Stable form of Vitamin C combined with starch-derived glucose
• It offers many of the same benefits as pure Vitamin C
• Excellent antioxidant to improve skin’s environmental defences
• It has skin-brightening benefits and improves uneven skin tone
• Works well when formulated with Niacinamide

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

• Oil-soluble, more stable form of vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
• Known to help preserve skin collagen
• Neutralises free radicals that would otherwise damage skin’s lipids
• It pairs well with other forms of Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Green Tea, and Retinol for enhanced anti-ageing benefits
• When targeting hyperpigmentation, may be used with other pigment-reducing ingredients such as Niacinamide and Licorice Root to deliver synergistic results

Treatment tips that can help when implementing Vitamin C

• Introduce Vitamin C gradually: L-Ascorbic Acid can be irritating, so start with a lower concentration and increase it based on your skin’s tolerance and needs
• Use a neutral pH cleanser before applying Vitamin C to minimize the risk of stinging or prickling from acidic formulas
• Avoid using Benzoyl Peroxide with Vitamin C: Benzoyl Peroxide can oxidize Vitamin C, reducing its potency. Use them at different times of the day—Vitamin C in the morning, Benzoyl Peroxide in the evening, or on alternate days
• Use Vitamin C in the morning, and retinoids at night: This ensures both actives work efficiently without interfering with each other
• Store Vitamin C properly: Vitamin C is sensitive to light and heat. To prevent oxidation, always store it in a dark or coloured container and limit exposure to air
• Layering with other actives: When combining Vitamin C with other serums, consider alternating their use on different days or using one in the morning and the other in the evening.
• Low pH Vitamin C serums may cause tingling: Serums with a very low pH can cause temporary sensitivity or a tingling sensation
• Vitamin C is not a substitute for SPF: Always use sunscreen in addition to Vitamin C to protect your skin from UV damage
• How to apply Vitamin C serums: Typically, Vitamin C serums come in glass dropper bottles. Dispense 4-5 drops and gently spread across the skin with your fingertips
• Colour variations in Vitamin C serums: The colour of Vitamin C can vary from clear to pale or dark yellow. This is normal and can vary by brand or batch
• Oxidation is common: L-Ascorbic Acid can darken over time, but it remains effective if formulated correctly with supporting studies
• Consult a professional if you have sensitive or allergy-prone skin: If you’re new to Vitamin C or have sensitive skin, seek medical or professional advice before incorporating it into your routine

Skincare products containing Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid
Dr Webster recommends:

• Obagi-C Cleansing Gel
• Dermaceutic Tri Vita C30 Serum
• NeoStrata® Enlighten 15% Vitamin C + PHA Serum
• SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic®
• Hyaestic 4% Arbutin & 10% Vitamin C Serum

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dr Webster recommends:

• Beaut™ Sunny Skin
• Lamelle Refirm Serum
• pHformula VITA C Serum
• Lamelle Clarity Active Control
• Endocare Radiance C Ferulic Edafence Serum

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dr Webster recommends:

• Lamelle Luminesce Brightening Defense 30
• pHformula VITA C Cream
• mesoestetic age element brightening eye contour
• Lamelle Nourish Rescue Repair Gel
• pHformula VITA C Bright Overnight Mask

Ascorbyl Glucoside
Dr Webster recommends:

• MartiDerm DSP Cream SPF 50+
• ZO Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener 0.5%
• Obagi-C Exfoliating Day Lotion

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Dr Webster recommends:

• NeoStrata® Brightening Eye Cream
• ZO Skin Health 10% Vitamin C Self-Activating Serum
• Lamelle Vita-C Lipid Serum
• Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex